Saint Jacob’s Church: A ruined landmark echoing Baghdad’s legacy of coexistence and hope
Shafaq News/ Behind a rusty, weathered door lies a poignant scene: charred walls and the remnants of once-grand furnishings that served the vibrant Christian community in their prayers and Masses. This is the reality of Saint Jacob’s Church, a historic landmark in the Asia neighborhood (Hayy Asia) of the Dora area, southern Baghdad.
The church, now a shadow of its former self, remains alive in the memories of Muslims who live nearby. With the Christian families who once populated the area having largely migrated, Muslim residents nostalgically recall a time when coexistence flourished.
The church was a shared space for celebrations and community gatherings, reflecting a deep bond between neighbors. Today, candles are lit within its ruins, a heartfelt gesture symbolizing hope and unity.
Among those keeping the church’s legacy alive is Nahla Iyad, a 30-year-old Muslim resident who passes by Saint Jacob’s Church daily. She often stops to light a candle, turning to its silent walls for solace. “This church is a place where prayers are answered,” she told Shafaq News. “I’ve felt peace here many times.” She reminisced about the days when the church was alive with hymns and prayers, a place where Christian and Muslim families shared an atmosphere of love and harmony.
A Historic Landmark Turned to Ruin
Saint Jacob’s Church was established in 1965 as a place not only for worship but also for education. Initially associated with a seminary for theological studies and Christian education, the seminary later became the renowned “Al-Ajyal School.”
The church began to deteriorate after 2003, as the security situation in Baghdad forced most Christian families to leave. In 2007, the church suffered a devastating blow when a bombing by Al-Qaeda destroyed much of its structure and contents. Its library, once filled with rare manuscripts and valuable texts, was looted, leaving the halls empty and desolate.
Today, the exterior walls of Saint Jacob’s Church remain as a silent testament to its storied history. Inside, the ruins echo with memories of a vibrant past. The statue of the Virgin Mary, once a centerpiece of devotion, is conspicuously absent, symbolizing the void left behind.
A Symbol of Coexistence
Despite its state of disrepair, Saint Jacob’s Church remains a site of reverence and reflection for both Muslim and Christian families. On special occasions, such as New Year’s celebrations, they visit the ruins to light candles.
One such visitor is Ibtihal Al-Saadi, a 57-year-old Muslim woman who cherishes memories of shared prayers and celebrations with her Christian neighbors before they depart from Baghdad.
“The church used to bring us together with love and peace,” Ibtihal told Shafaq News, her voice heavy with sorrow. “Today, it stands as a witness to painful times.”
Dora’s Christian Heritage Fades
Once a prominent place for Christian life, the Dora area was home to numerous churches serving various denominations, including the Chaldeans and the Ancient Church of the East. However, the community has faced severe challenges over the years. In March 2023, the Catholic Monks Monastery, a historical site dating back to the 1960s and one of Dora’s largest Christian landmarks, was demolished, marking another blow to the area’s rich heritage.
This decline is not limited to Dora. Across Baghdad and other provinces in central and southern Iraq, historic churches are falling into neglect. In areas like Shorja and Al-Nidal Street, some church buildings have been partially repurposed as storage spaces, car garages, or private institutions. Their once-bustling halls have remained closed for years.
Saint Jacob’s Church: A Community Effort
The plight of Saint Jacob’s Church is emblematic of this broader decline. According to its custodian, Bassam Saeed, the number of Christian families in the Asia neighborhood has dwindled from 100 to fewer than 15, making reconstruction efforts unfeasible for now. “Rebuilding the church is a postponed project,” Saeed told Shafaq News, citing the lack of resources and declining Christian presence in the area.
Despite the challenges, symbolic efforts by both Muslims and Christians aim to breathe life into the church’s legacy. Volunteers occasionally clean the site and organize modest activities to preserve its sanctity.
A Shrinking Christian Population
The story of Saint Jacob’s Church reflects the broader struggles of Iraq’s Christian community. Louis Marqous, Vice President of the Hammurabi Human Rights Organization (HHRO), highlighted the sharp decline in Baghdad’s Christian population, which has fallen from 400,000 in earlier decades to fewer than 10,000 today. This significant loss has led to the closure of several iconic churches, such as the Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in Karrada and the Holy Trinity Church in Baladiyat.
Official statistics reveal that Arab Christians make up just 2% of Iraq’s Christian population. Despite the decline, Baghdad remains home to three Greek Orthodox churches, four Coptic Orthodox churches, and 57 Roman Catholic churches scattered across the country. A small number of Protestant churches also add to the tapestry of Iraq’s religious heritage.
