Eid al-Fitr’s creamy delight: Geymar in Baghdad

Shafaq News/ On the second day of Eid al-Fitr, Baghdad stirred before sunrise—not from noise, but in quiet anticipation of a tradition that runs deep in the city’s soul. Across neighborhoods, families rose early to share a simple, cherished ritual: geymar. The thick, creamy delight made from buffalo or cow’s milk isn’t just breakfast—it’s a taste of home and identity, passed down like an heirloom.

Al-Mulhani Market: A Legacy of Authenticity

In the historic Al-Kadhimiya district, Al-Mulhani Market came alive before dawn. Known as Baghdad’s most trusted source for authentic geymar, the market has held this reputation since the 1920s. Each Eid, its narrow alleys and familiar stalls become a magnet for those unwilling to compromise on taste or tradition.

“I could find geymar closer to home, but it wouldn't be the same,” said Saeed Abdul Rahim, 40, who traveled from Al-Bayaa. For his family, it’s more than food—it’s a generational tradition.

“Eid morning doesn’t feel the same without it,” Abdul Rahim told Shafaq News.

Meeting Demand with Time-Honored Methods

Behind the counters, vendors like Umm Kazem work tirelessly to meet the surge in demand. At 60, she still travels from Fudhailiya before sunrise, doubling her usual supply. “This is pure geymar—no starch, no chemicals. Just milk and time,” she clarified to our agency, offering trays of buffalo and cow milk geymar for 35,000 dinars (about $27) per kilo.

A few steps away, Umm Hussein fills her stall with fresh yogurt, ghee, and soft cheeses. “Customers come for geymar, but they stay for the other dairy. These are the tastes they grew up with,” she lamented. Her booth, like many in Al-Mulhani, feels more like a home kitchen than a market stall.

Tradition That Tastes Like Home

The devotion to handmade geymar isn’t just about flavor—it’s about connection. “You can taste the difference,” Taha Al-Khazali, 45, from Al-Jadriya, told our agency. “It’s dense, rich—no shortcuts. It’s part of who we are.”

For many, the ritual is a thread tying past to present. “These customs ground us, especially as life becomes more uncertain,” he added.

Al-Sadria Market: Another Pillar of the Tradition

Across the river, Al-Sadria Market carries the same spirit. The legendary Rasool Abu Al-Kahi restaurant serves golden kahi pastries smothered in honey and geymar—a dish that blends indulgence with memory.

In a city shaped by change and challenge, some things endure. Geymar is one of them. For Baghdadis, it’s more than holiday food—it’s a link to childhood, to family, to moments that never fade. No matter how the world shifts, some mornings still begin with cream, warmth, and the comfort of tradition.