Baghdad’s black beauty: Zaynabi Abaya still reigns supreme in Iraqi culture
Shafaq News/ The traditional Iraqi women’s cloak, known as the “Zaynabi abaya,” remains a deeply rooted cultural and religious symbol, even as modern fashion influences spread across the country.
The Zaynabi abaya, widely worn by Iraqi women for centuries, carries strong religious significance and continues to dominate traditional markets, particularly in Baghdad’s Kadhimiya district, long known for its skilled cloak makers. The term "Zaynabi" refers to Zaynab bint Ali, the granddaughter of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH), revered for her piety and steadfastness.
One of the oldest traders, Abdul Razzaq, known locally as "Abu Dhar," has spent decades selling various types of women’s abayas. Despite social changes in Iraq, he says demand for the traditional cloak remains strong.
Speaking to Shafaq News, Abdul Razzaq explained that several fabrics are used in making abayas, the most prominent being "jirget," considered among the finest, alongside mid-range fabrics like "Khafiyar" and silk varieties. Fabric quality and grade, he noted, significantly affect prices, with top-grade Japanese-made jirget cloaks fetching up to 200,000 Iraqi dinars ($153), while mid-range types, such as those from the brand "Umm Al-Alamain," range between 100,000 and 125,000 dinars.
Cheaper fabrics imported from countries like South Korea, Vietnam, Indonesia, and China are also available but are generally considered inferior to Japanese fabrics, he added.
Ancient Origins and Evolution
The origins of the women’s abaya trace back over 4,000 years, with its use expanding after the advent of Islam. According to medieval scholar Yaqut al-Hamawi in his "Mu'jam al-Buldan," early abayas were white. Following the martyrdom of Imam Hussein in 680 CE, Prophet Mohammed’s (PBUH) grandson, black abayas became the norm, a tradition that continues among Iraqi women today.
Until 2003, Abdul Razzaq said, the "Zaynabi" style — characterized by its full-body coverage including arms and hands — was the dominant design.
Diverse Styles Emerging
However, after 2003, increased contact with neighboring countries introduced new styles, including Iranian, Lebanese, and Bahraini abayas, which differ in fabric and design. Despite this influx, Abdul Razzaq emphasized that Iraqi women still overwhelmingly prefer the traditional Zaynabi cloak, valuing it as both a religious and cultural emblem.
While a small number of younger women now seek more modern designs, demand for the traditional Iraqi abaya continues to outpace interest in imported styles.
Inside Abdul Razzaq’s shop, a variety of cloaks are displayed for customers, most of whom, he said, opt for the Zaynabi abaya as a proud expression of Iraqi identity.
